Michinoku Coastal Trail

The first morning of our Michinoku Coastal Trail journey broke over a quiet sea in Soma, blue and endless. We set out northbound—against the usual flow—hoping spring would follow our steps. The day carried us through farmlands and shrines, soft wind and the season’s first cherry blossoms. By evening, tired but unhurt, we reached the foot of Mt. Karou, our next climb waiting. The road ahead stretched north for a thousand kilometers, and it already felt like the beginning of something vast.

Day 2 opened bright and clear as we climbed Mt. Karou, where the summit offered a full circle of mountains, farmland, and the shining sea. Springs and early cherry blossoms eased the way down before the road stretched into flat, sun-baked silence—just heat, wind, and one lonely red vending machine that felt like salvation. Later, the ruins of a seaside school brought the day to a quiet pause, and somewhere beyond that, a small unexpected kindness reminded us that the trail still had surprises waiting.

Day 3 led us over the Watari Horst Mountains — a string of small peaks that looked gentle on the map but proved quietly demanding underfoot. The trail rolled from one ridge to the next, sometimes through open views, sometimes under cedar shade, until rain found us near the end. By the time we reached Watari’s quiet streets and the promise of a seaside onsen, our bodies finally understood how even low hills can add up. It wasn’t dramatic, but it was one of those steady, satisfying hiking days that leave you both worn out and content.

Day 4 began with easy steps through quiet neighborhoods. We met a local elder with his dog—little did we know he was the oldest MCT thru-hiker still in the making then. The trail followed the wide Abukuma River, past stone-carved Buddhas and across long, flat coastal plains where the horizon never seemed to move. Just when the monotony started to wear us down, we found a small sheep village—a cheerful surprise in the middle of nowhere—and later, the last standing house from a vanished seaside town. By the time Sendai Airport came into view, we were simply glad to have walked it all.

Day 5 began under a sky as white as paper—eerily still after days of blazing blue. From Sendai Airport to the quiet bay of Yuriage, we followed the line between the sea and the city, where traces of the 2011 tsunami still lingered. The road stretched straight for miles, flat as the horizon itself, testing both patience and feet. By the time the factories of Sendai Port appeared through the haze, all we wanted was rest, hot water, and a place to breathe.

Day 6 began with easy feet and clear skies — a rare combination on the MCT so far. From the port of Sendai to Tagajo, a city whose history stretches back more than a thousand years, the trail led us through layers of ancient culture and sacred hills. Cherry blossoms lined the path, softening the air with spring. By day’s end, we stood at Shiogama Shrine overlooking the bay, knowing that tomorrow, the trail would carry us across the sea to the islands beyond.

A detailed instructions for smooth travel on the complicated sea route and hiking through the Urato Islands part of Michinoku Coastal Trail (MCT: みちのく潮風トレイル.)

Yesterday, while we were walking around the ancient historical sites in Tagajo City, I called Suzuki-san, one of the fishermen supporters for the MCT, who was going to take us out on his boat to today’s goal. From his voice and the way he spoke, he came across as really kind and easygoing. He told us the weather for…

During the fifty days of our hike on the Michinoku Coastal Trail, we always booked accommodations to secure our beds in the walls and roofs for the next seven days or eight. It was mainly because we needed to plan how and where to send our camping gear boxes.We always used Yamato delivery service (we call them “blac…

MCT thru-hikers need at least three days to cover all the island parts on the official route. They are concentrated in the southern parts of the MCT route. That means sea travel happens at a very early stage of the MCT thru-hike for the northbound hikers. On the other hand, the southbound hikers will come just befor…

Throughout the MCT, which section is the hardest to reach?  It is, no doubt, Mt. Kinkasan Island 金華山, the last one of the three “islands” sections. It is not only the hardest to reach but also the most expensive place to get to — at least for us- and the most thorough preplanning is required.   Too…

After we returned to our hotel last evening, the drizzle quickly turned into pouring and continued all night.  Still, we were very optimistic and relaxed because the evening weather forecast expected the rain to calm down by this morning. We soaked in a big hot onsen all to ourselves, enjoyed our dinner, and ha…

The excellent view through the windows of our room at Zuiko was even better this morning. The seawater was lighter blue and more transparent, calmly shimmering under the morning sun.  The rain clouds and cold wind had gone. We slept well last night as Zuiko was pretty quiet inside and outside. Surprisingly, tho…

Onagawa, an ideal rest-day town Almost two weeks had passed since we started from the MCT Southern Terminus in Soma. It was about time to take a much-needed rest day.As much as we wished we could spontaneously stop and take a rest day, the lodging situation and hiking environment in Japan don’t work well with it. We…

Back on Track We were excited to get back on the trail after two full days of rest in Onagawa Town—especially since the day began with a 10-kilometer stretch of nature trails leading up and down the town’s highest mountain, Mt. Ishinageyama 石投山 (455.5 m). After reaching our goal point for the day, we planned to r…

When Finding a Bed Felt Impossible We honestly thought we might finally have to do stealth camping when we looked at the route map around the Ogatsu Peninsula 雄勝半島. On Day 16 of our MCT thru-hiking, our plan was to walk all the way around the peninsula to Hamanasu Café はまなすカフェ by Lake Nagatsuraura 長面浦,…

The Only Way Is Up — Keep Walking “If you hit rock bottom, you can only go up from there.”Is it true? We would find out today. Last evening, on the way to our hotel from Lake Nagatsuraura, we arranged this morning’s pickup with the taxi driver. So when we checked out of the hotel, the taxi was already waiting (again…