Day 19 of our MCT thru-hike began in the mountains, leaving the former schoolhouse inn and walking through hamlets that were clearly proud to have the trail pass through their home. After crossing Sakanokai Toge Pass, we went over Mt. Tatsuganesan, encountered the heavy story of Mankai Shonin, and followed the Monk’s Trail — complete with a random moai carved into a tree, calmly pointing the way. The day also turned into our longest vending-machine drought since the lucky octopus area, until one finally appeared in the middle of nowhere like a small miracle. We finished soaked in rain, briefly losing faith in both Google Maps and road signs while searching for the “missing” BRT station, before finally riding a packed bus into Kesennuma and settling into a comfortable business ryokan with our supply boxes waiting.