Autumn in the Netherlands always feels fleeting. One week the trees are golden, and the next the wind and rain have swept everything bare. On one of those quiet November days, when the air was crisp and the light already turning wintry, we set out for a short walk in the woods — De Duintjes Trail in the village of Garderen.

Our long summer plan for 2025 was supposed to be a two-month journey across Japan, starting with the full Chita Pilgrimage. But the brutal heat changed everything. Even on Day 1, walking through the flat towns and endless paved streets of the Chita Peninsula, we quickly realized how unrealistic midsummer hiking would be. It was a clear lesson in how different this route is from Shikoku: no mountains, few signs, and almost nowhere to rest. By the time we reached a café that saved the day, the walk had already turned from an adventure into a test of endurance.

Day 17 of our Michinoku Coastal Trail thru-hike became a clear turning point. Until now, the flatter southern sections had often felt repetitive and unsatisfying, leaving us doubtful about the trail’s reputation. But after crossing the Kitakami River, everything began to change. The scenery grew wider, the air clearer, and even the mood lighter. We visited the quiet memorial at Okawa Elementary School, saw our first wild Japanese serow, and followed the coast to Cape Kamiwarizaki and the lively hamlets of Minamisanriku. It was the first day we felt the trail open up — both in landscape and in spirit.